Day 7 - Clonmacnoise & return to Dublin

We left Galway in the morning with a new driver, Paddy.  Nigel was required by EU rules to return to Dublin for his mandatory break :(  Instead of our roomy 29-seat bus we are now in a 8-passenger van (what Jeannie & Val call "the Black Moriah").  We are headed back to Dublin via Clonmacnoise, the home of the high crosses.
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Clonmacnoise is set back & is unseen from the road.  Once up the drive and out of the parking lot (car park in Ireland) the entire compound is seen and is most impressive.  There is an interpretive center with a film explaining the history of the site as well as 3 of the original high crosses (up to 1200 years old).  The crosses that are outside are replicas made from casts of the original -- that way, the originals are protected indoors and the replicas get to deal with the wind and rain.

Original high cross

Our tour guide Joy showed us how to read the crosses (a good thing since some of the markings are so weathered they are difficult to make out) while the rooks (a black bird similar to crows) made their disturbingly high-pitched calls to one another.  The compound is lovely, situated on the River Shannon with a view of marshes that flood seasonally.



View of River Shannon from Clonmacnoise

 Once back in Dublin, we visited Trinity College to see the Book of Kells.  Unfortunately cameras were not allowed inside the exhibit so I can't show you anything but the wall display outside the hall.  After the Book of Kells, we exited through an amazing library hall with ceilings that must have been 20 feet high, bookcases on 2 levels all the way up, filled with the smell of old leather and paper.  Down the middle were display cases showing significant books and documents of Irish history, including the Declaration that preceded the Easter Rising in 1916.  That one particulary affected me because I realized that every man who had signed his name to it had been executed at Killmainham Gaol afterwards.

We ended our day at dinner with our group -- our last meal together at which we all exchanged email addresses so we can share all the pictures we took of each other.

Tomorrow, back to the USA.

Day 6 - Galway

Day 6 brings us to Galway, the 3rd largest city in Ireland and a true college town (it is home to the University of Ireland - Galway).  We started our day with a cruise on Lough Corrib, the link between the Corrib lakes and the River Shannon.  After boarding the Corrib Princess we sailed past ruins of thatched-roof stone houses, Menlo Castle, and a site where spear heads from 1900 years ago were found.

Corrib Princess



Ruin of thatched roof stone house







 

Menlo Castle

After returning from our cruise we visited the area of Galway called the Claddagh (birthplace of the Claddagh ring).  Jusst above that area is The Quays, a pedestrian area full of shops, pubs, & nightclubs -- very busy on a Saturday night!  At the top of The Quays we found a weekend street market full of stalls selling fruits, vegetables, toys, cheese, crepes, clothing, and freshly made donuts.  Seriously, the gentleman would take the order and only then would he make the donuts.  Just a couple of minutes later you would have a fresh, hot donut in your hand (wrapped in a serviette - napkin) after being tossed in sugar & then sprinkled with your choice of cocoa or cinnamon.

Later in the evening, we returned to The Quays to see some of the nightlife.  The area was thronged with college students out for a night at the club -- lots of very short skirts & very high heels & mates sharing a laugh and a beer.  Because Rachel is under 18 (and all the pubs were carding) we headed back toward the hotel and found a hotel pub that was open to all ages.  There were 2 young musicians there practicing their music -- 2 guitars and a wonderful voice singing mainly music from the 60's.  We hung out and drank 7-up until almost midnight.

In the morning, heading out to Dublin via Clonmacnoise, home of the high crosses.



Day 4 - the Liam O'Connor show

I picked up an Irish cold on night 3 (felt it come on while watching the Celtic Whisper at the Danny Mann pub) & by Thursday I practically had no voice and a bit of a cotton-brain -- which explains why I totally forgot to blog about seeing Liam O'Connor's show that night.

Liam was the accordianist for "Lord of the Dance" and also is in the Guiness Book of World Records as the "fastest fingers in the world."  We got tickets to see him perform at another hotel in Killarney & it was sooooooo worth it!  He is an amazing musician (as was Seamus, his keyboard / sax / flute / bodhrain player) .  His children performed (sons on the bodhrain & daughter step-dancing) as well as his wife who has the most amazingly clear voice I have ever heard.  He was also accompanied by 3 step-dancers who clearly love what they do.

Liam O'Connor (center) with step-dancers



 And, not least of all, apparently the team from County Cork won the All Ireland cup & were there to share the evening.  Clearly, Liam is a Cork supporter and had the team up on the stage to do a bit of singing & dancing with him.


Team from County Cork with Liam O'Connr

All-Ireland Cup

**Pictures posted finally**

Day 5 continued - Bunratty Castle

So, after being wind-blown at the Cliffs we headed into Limerick for the night -- learned it is nicknamed "Stab City" due to its crime rate so we were glad to only be staying 1 night.  Hotel was not in the greatest part of town, but it had comfortable beds and a great bathroom so we could make due. 

We had about an hour in the hotel & then we were off to our Medieval Banquet at Bunratty Castle.  The original wooden castle was built in the 12th century by the Normans & burned down twice.  Finally in the 15th century, it was replaced with a stone castle & it was this one that was restored about 50 years ago. 

Entering Bunratty Castle

We arrived after dark to find the castle lit up -- what a sight!  We entered the castle across a short draw bridge & were greeted by Derrick, our Butler for the night.  We were ushered upstairs into a receiving room decorated with 15th century tapestries and hand-carved furniture.  We were offered the Bite of Friendship (bread chunk dipped in salt) to ward off any ghosts in the castle who may want to ruin our evening and a glass of honey meade.  We were entertained by a harpist & violinist & later by minstrel song.   And then finally we were ushered to the dining hall.

Harp & Violin in Receptinon Hall

We sat at long bench tables fitted out with crockery, wooden plates, and a knife (our only utensil).  Jugs of white & red wine sat on the table along with a jug of water & a jug of fresh orange juice.  Our first course was a curried vegetable soup (which I liked even though I don't like curry) followed by the best ribs I have ever eaten!  Next came a half capon & vegetables (carrot, parsnip, & broccoli -- they seem to  be the standard trio here).  Dessert was rastid, a fruit dessert. 

Our table at the banquet

During dinner we listened to wonderful music performed by the same minstrels as in the reception room, one of whom studied at Julliard and another of which performed at the Met in New York (they also doubled as our waitstaff). 

Minstrel singers (violinist studied at Julliard, baritone at far right performed at the NY Met)

We learned one of the honored guests in the hall had been "dallying with the ladies" & the Lord of the dinner had him thrown into the dungeon.  He was released as an act of mercy & was required to perform for the audience.  He chose a song "of deep philosophical meaning" & launched into "Twinkle, Twinkle Little Star."

Said singing his way out of the dungeon

It was a wonderful evening!  Nobody wanted the evening to end.  It was easy to imagine that it was really the 15th century -- if only we had been wearing the appropriate costumes :)

Day 5 - Cliffs of Moher & the Burren

Today we left Killarney & headed to Limerick. On the way, we stopped at one of the most famous places in Ireland - the Cliffs of Moher. We expected breath-taking views but the wind was almost as spectacular! It's amazing how the wind blows here...I guess it must be because it has nothing to stop it on its way across the Atlantic until it hits this fair island, but boy does it hit when it gets here!



Tiffany & Rachel fight the wind at the Cliffs of Moher

But the view...it was amazing!!!  The pictures you see can't do it justice at all.  The sheer height of them, the surf pounding away under them, and the wind trying to fling you around cannot be conveyed in a photo (but I'll add one anyway).

Cliffs of Moher

On the opposite cliffs is the O'Brien Tower which is only 175 years old this year.  We climbed its very narrow spiral stairs to the top & got an even better view (and more wind -- check out the hair in the picture!).

Lisa, Rachel & Tiffany at O'Brien's Tower

After we left the Cliffs, we came almost immediately to the Burren.  It is a limestone escarpment thrust up from the sea floor aeons ago and is a dramatic change from the lush green scenery we have become accustomed to here.   The stone is weathered from wind & rain and is almost like a jigsaw puzzle with gaps that allow seeds to root and make green spots in between.

Boundary to the Burren - lush green in foreground, rocky Burren in background

The Burren

Next up...a Medieval banquet at Bunratty Castle!!!

Day 4 - The Ring of Kerry

Today was a feast for the eyes as we drove around the Ring of Kerry -- a loop around the southern tip of Ireland & the Killarney National Park.  Our first treat for the eyes was the McGillicuddy Reeks (mountains) and the River  Caragh which flows beneath them.  It was such a magnificent view -- peeks of sun through the clouds, mountains covered in heather, cold water rushing below...just amazing!

Sun peeking through the clouds in County Kerry

Lisa & Rachel at the River Caragh

 The water in the rivers here is cold & a dark green/gold color due to all the tannins in it.   We've seen many waterfalls along the way today.  According to our driver/tour guide Nigel, it's not due to springs from underground, but rather due to the impermeability of the mountains -- any water that falls onto them ends up falling off again :)

This is truly the Land of Rainbows!  We've seen 3 -- 1 full one in County Tipperary (I was the 1st to find it!), and 2 broken ones in County Kerry.   The weather is much like home -- cloudy, sunny, rainy, clear -- just wait a few minutes if you don't like it!  The temps have been very mild, though, so even when it rains it's not cold.

Panoramic view of the River Caragh

Our lunch break was in Sneem and we ate at the Riverside Cafe -- beautiful waterfall beside it!

River through Sneem -- Riverside Cafe is on the right bank

 Then we were off to Killarney National Park & Muckross House.   The park is 27,000 acres of which the 1st 15,000 were donated by the last owners of Muckross House and it became the 1st National Park in Ireland. It is breathtakingly beautiful!

View of Muckross Lake in Killarney National Park

  In the evening, we hit the Danny Mann pub for some live entertainment by the2-man band Celtic Whisper.  It was lots of fun and gave us our first taste of Irish nightlife.

Celtic Whisper at the Danny Mann pub

Tomorrow, it's off to Limerick!

Day 3 - Blarney Castle

We headed out of Dublin at 9am & headed south for Blarney.  The city proper has about 1.1 million people and thus has a morning rush hour like everyone else...except for the fact that much of it is on narrow 2 lane roads & shared with cyclists who have to ride in the same lane as the cars.  It wasn't bad though (but I will tell you I am glad I wasn't driving!). 

An hour and a half outside of Dublin we stopped in Cashel for a break.  Cute little town world renowned for its bleu cheese - couldn't find a cheese shop, though :( 

Cashel Main Street

We headed south again and stopped at the Blarney Woollen Mill & we had lunch in the pub there - ordered our 1st pint of Guiness, too . 

Interior of the pub at Blarney Woollen Mill

After lunch, we headed off to the castle.  It is a ruin but all 4 walls are still standing, just no floors in the middle or roof on top.  First we stopped at the entrance to the dungeon & Rachel crawled further than one else.  We then climbed up about 100 stairs (mostly spiral) to the top -- luckily they put ropes and pipe hand rails in so it wasn't too hard.  At the top there is a glorious view of the surrounding countryside!  I was the only one of us 3 to kiss the Blarney Stone -- haven't noticed a difference yet (no jokes out there!)

Blarney Castle as seen from the lower field

We checked into our hotel in Killarney (means "church of the sloth") & had problems with our internet connection so I had to wait to update this blog.  Still having issues getting kicked off so I will add the photos when I can.

***photos added finally!!!